Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026: Lagerfeld, Torishéju, and Olivia von Halle Collections
Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 showcased three distinct creative visions across luxury fashion houses. Karl Lagerfeld presented a Mediterranean-inspired collection celebrating Karl's Monaco residence La Vigie, while Torishéju Dumi, fresh from winning the LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize, blended military utility with artistic references to Albrecht Dürer. Meanwhile, Olivia von Halle unveiled a sophisticated capsule collection in partnership with Hôtel Costes, featuring luxurious dévoré loungewear in signature fiery red. Each designer demonstrated unique approaches to luxury fashion while maintaining their distinctive brand identities.
Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 continues to showcase the diverse creative landscape of luxury fashion, with three distinct houses presenting collections that reflect unique inspirations and design philosophies. From Mediterranean elegance to intellectual artistry and hotel-inspired luxury, these collections demonstrate the breadth of contemporary fashion expression.
Lagerfeld: Mediterranean Elegance at La Vigie
The house of Lagerfeld transported audiences to the French Riviera with a collection inspired by La Vigie, the beautiful villa where Karl Lagerfeld resided on the border of Monaco and France. Creative director Kun Kim captured the elegantly easy mood of this Mediterranean residence, creating pieces that reflected Karl's happy years in this tropical garden setting. The collection featured Monaco prints in elegiac seaside sketches, appearing on cotton pajamas, silk shirts, and denim jean jackets that embodied the relaxed sophistication of Riviera living.
La Vigie's classical architectural lines influenced the construction of garments, with many pieces featuring prominent shoulders that riffed on 1980s power silhouettes. Kun maintained the house's neo-expressionist DNA with matte jersey cocktail dresses, smart silk pajama pants trimmed with KL signature frieze, and cotton striped twin sets with shorts featuring tiny mirror buttons in Karl's profile. The collection also included impressive semi-sheer polyester organza trenches and a sophisticated safari jacket with detachable elements.
Torishéju: Intellectual Fusion of Military and Art
Fresh from winning the LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize, Torishéju Dumi presented a collection that demonstrated why she fully merited this prestigious award. The Nigerian-Brazilian designer, educated at London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins, showcased her talent for blending diverse references into coherent, sophisticated clothing. The collection opened with a striking black wool jacket featuring a ladylike peplum and extended shoulders on Naomi Campbell, suggesting chevalier's armor while maintaining contemporary relevance.
Dumi's intellectual approach was evident throughout the collection, which featured super-lieutenant-on-maneuvers ribbed wool jerseys paired with asymmetrical ruffled skirts, perfectly draped streaked wool dresses with frayed hems, and second-skin raspberry leather pieces. The designer drew inspiration from Albrecht Dürer's art, exploring tensions between the divine and earthly, chaos and control, body and system. Each look maintained an artistic sensibility while remaining wearable—the hallmark of a truly talented designer with staying power and panache.
Olivia von Halle: Hotel Luxury Meets Loungewear
Olivia von Halle's partnership with Hôtel Costes represents the second major hotel collaboration for the luxury pajama maker, following her successful link-up with The Carlyle. The capsule collection, celebrated in the packed bar of Paris' eternally cool hotel, features the Lila Liaisons—a revamped version of von Halle's bestselling pajama silhouette—accompanied by the Deneuve Liaisons headscarf and Audrey Costes eye mask. Made in Costes' signature fiery red, the collection received immediate attention, particularly the tops worn by barmen during the launch soirée.
The collection is primarily crafted from beautiful silk dévoré with remarkable burnout patterns. The print, originating from a hand-drawn sketch in Olivia von Halle's London atelier, plays on Costes codes by blending "les années folles" spirit, wisps of smoke spelling "Costes," and a touch of naughtiness. As von Halle explained, "I've always loved the idea of turning a mood, a place, a feeling into a pajama. And at Costes, our pieces feel perfectly at home." This collection perfectly captures the refined, sexy aesthetic sweeping contemporary fashion while maintaining the brand's commitment to luxurious comfort.
These three collections from Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 demonstrate the continuing evolution of luxury fashion, where heritage houses maintain their distinctive identities while embracing contemporary influences. From Lagerfeld's Mediterranean elegance to Torishéju's intellectual artistry and Olivia von Halle's hotel-inspired luxury, each designer has created collections that speak to different aspects of modern luxury living while maintaining the highest standards of craftsmanship and design innovation.
