Paris Fashion Week Friday: International Designers Shine Through the Rain
Despite torrential rain, Paris Fashion Week delivered four remarkable collections from five non-French designers on Friday. American duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough made their Loewe debut with a modernist statement, while Harris Reed presented a sophisticated collection for Nina Ricci. Sarah Burton continued her reign at Givenchy with dramatic leather creations, and Victoria Beckham showcased her growing technical prowess in the historic Val-de-Grâce cloisters. Each designer brought unique perspectives to the Parisian runway, proving that fashion transcends borders even in challenging weather conditions.
As torrential rain swept through Paris, fashion enthusiasts gathered to witness an exceptional day of international creativity at Paris Fashion Week. Despite the challenging weather conditions, four distinct collections by five non-French designers captivated audiences with their unique visions and technical mastery. The day showcased how global talent continues to shape and redefine Parisian fashion, bringing fresh perspectives to established houses while maintaining the city's reputation as the world's fashion capital.
Loewe: American Duo Makes Confident Debut
Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, the American design partners formerly of Proenza Schouler, made their highly anticipated debut for Spanish luxury house Loewe. Following Jonathan Anderson's successful tenure, the duo faced significant pressure but delivered a polished, modernist collection that immediately resonated with critics and buyers alike. Their presentation featured a cohesive vision built around primary colors, drawing inspiration from Ellsworth Kelly's 1989 painting "Yellow Panel with Red Curve" that graced the show entrance.
The collection represented a sophisticated fusion of Manhattan energy and Madrid craftsmanship, with experimental leatherwork serving as the central theme. The designers showcased innovative techniques using ragged suede in contemporary jeans, tops, and jerkins, while presenting dramatic chess piece-style jackets and blazers in hyper-iron rawhide. These pieces appeared in strikingly bright primary leather colors including cobalt blue, dazzling orange, and forest green, creating a vibrant statement against the gloomy Paris weather.
Nina Ricci: Harris Reed's Sophisticated Evolution
Harris Reed demonstrated significant growth in his latest collection for Nina Ricci, presenting inside the historic La Sorbonne university. The show featured what Reed described as a "tour of Rock Olympia" with goddesses, groovy grand dames, and sophisticated groupies. The collection smartly juxtaposed contemporary design with the venue's traditional cut-stone, marble, and gilded ironwork, creating a compelling dialogue between past and present.
Reed showcased his mastery of the Paris atelier system with deep-gorge blouses, bronze satin pantsuits, and mannish sequined jackets in hues of burnt coffee and cobalt blue. The collection featured flippy skirts with lace inserts anchored by substantial python boots with brass heels. For evening wear, Reed presented sequin or velvet dressing gowns worn over semi-sheer chiffon polkadot cocktails or pants, demonstrating his evolving understanding of sophisticated seduction.
Givenchy: Sarah Burton's Dramatic Vision
Sarah Burton continued to define her vision for Givenchy with a collection focused on refined seduction and dramatic leather pieces. Working extensively with tough, chic black leather, Burton created pieces that generated audible reactions from the audience, particularly a memorable moment when model Emeline Hoarau appeared in a black pocketed leather skirt and push-up bra combination. The collection explored themes of "dress and undress" while maintaining the house's signature sophistication.
Burton's tailoring remained crisp and clean, featuring statuesque white fine wool double-breasted pantsuits and perfect slimline corporate suits. She also reinterpreted Givenchy's iconic Bettina blouse through shirting variations, including a snappy officer's version with pockets and exaggerated shoulders. The show, staged before Napoleon's tomb in a pristine white circular room, provided stark contrast to the harsh gray rain that greeted guests upon exit.
Victoria Beckham: Growing Technical Mastery
Victoria Beckham presented her collection within the historic cloisters of Val-de-Grâce, combining sacred and profane elements while demonstrating her continued growth as a designer. The show featured slinky, sexy, and sophisticated pieces with a focus on very feminine dresses, particularly slip dresses constructed with hidden inner rims and trimmed with lace or crochet strips. These technical details granted the dresses novel asymmetry and subtle, sensual movement.
Beckham showcased significant technical advancement with hand-sprayed rooster feather tops and impeccable tailoring featuring overlong trousers and mannish double-breasted suits worn with T-shirts. The collection reflected Beckham's personal style evolution and her house's commercial success, having achieved double-digit growth over the past decade and breaking through annual sales of £100 million. The upcoming Netflix documentary is expected to further boost her brand's visibility and revenue.
Despite the challenging weather conditions that plagued Paris throughout the day, each designer demonstrated resilience and creativity, proving that compelling fashion can transcend environmental obstacles. The collections collectively highlighted the ongoing internationalization of Paris Fashion Week while maintaining the city's position as the ultimate destination for luxury fashion presentation.
